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So, you want to get started in motocross? This
article will, hopefully, answer some questions
you might have or at least inspire you to get
out there and make some new friends to support
your motocross hobby.
First off let’s talk about safety.
One of the
greatest things you can do is to protect
yourself when you’re on the bike. Make sure
your gear fits properly. Poor fitting gear can
be a big hindrance, because you’re focusing more
on what’s on your body and how uncomfortable it
is than on the road and the machine. So, make
sure when you buy gear you get the sizing down.
Don’t be shy to ask your motocross vendor about
sizing, better to have a healthy satisfied
customer than one in a full-body cast.
And while
you’re out sizing up gear and getting the proper
fit, don’t be afraid to splurge on some decent
earplugs. Riding can be noisy. From the wind
zipping by to the sound of the bike, and
although a lot of helmets promise a quiet,
smooth ride, you’re still going to need some
earplugs to play it safe.
When buying
protective gear a helmet is an absolute. Get
one that meets or exceeds Snell and
DOT-certification. That means they’ve been
subjected to a number of tests and came out
still looking like a helmet and not something
you’d get at IHOP covered in whip cream and
strawberries. You’ll want one that fits well on
your head too. Heads come in different sizes
(helmet sizing is determined by the distance
around your head in centimeters. Measure the
circumference of your head just above your
eyebrows to determine your correct helmet size)
so it doesn’t come as a surprise that helmets
do, too.
Next you’ll
want a jacket, gloves, and boots. Protect your
hands and fingers and your body from flying
debris. And if you do get into a spill (and you
will eventually) the jacket and gloves can
prevent nasty scrapes and bruises.
Fox Racing has a complete line of protective
gear and
Alpinestars manufactures great boots.
If you’re
starting out, take it slow. And by slow I mean
both speed and time wise. You don’t have to hop
on the bike and become Billy and Wyatt from
Easy Rider overnight. Start up a love
affair with your bike. Get to know the
controls. Sit on it. Take it out for short
spins. Learn what the bike can do and can’t do.
In a Zen way become one with the bike. And
don’t forget to look around for motorcycle
riding courses, you can find those by asking
either at your local police department or the
colleges in the area.
Some tracks,
run by organizations (like the MRA), are open
for practice runs for those wanting to get their
feet wet. You can find these organizations by
either talking to your local motocross dealer,
trying a Google search, or letting your fingers
do the walking the old fashioned way—by using
the Yellow pages. Either way it’s a good
practice to network and talk to your fellow
enthusiasts to find out where the best places to
practice are. Remember: There are no stupid
questions, well unless it’s the question never
asked.
Which comes to
this, before you purchase a bike (either new or
used) do your research. Find out what you want
in a bike, do some comparison shopping and ask a
lot of questions like:
How often do
you clean the bike’s air filter? The correct
answer is after one or two rides. Don’t let
someone tell you it doesn’t matter, it does.
You want good air filter maintenance or
otherwise you’ll be looking at more costly
repairs down the road.
Next we move
on to transmission oil. Change that every two
to four rides to keep a healthy clutch and
trans. And if the bike is a four-strike make
sure you change it every 250-500 miles because
the oil not only lubricates the engine but the
transmission, and if you’re not changing it
based on the previously mentioned mile
guidelines you’re going to shorten the lives of
those important parts.
Find out the
brand and type of oil filter your bike uses as
well as transmission lube. I cannot stress how
important it is to take care of the fluids in
your bike to extend its life and the pleasure of
your rides. So when buying a bike be sure you
engage the seller or dealer about these things.
See how much they know about the care of the
product they’re selling, because their erudition
or lack of knowledge is going to tell you a
whole lot about the product they’re trying to
peddle on you.
But back to
the oil, or the bike’s blood. Play it real safe
by bringing a narrow strip of white construction
paper with you. You’re going to use this to
test the coloration of the oil in the bike (do
this is you’re buying the bike second hand).
You want the paper to come out as tan as George
Hamilton’s skin. Tan means the transmission oil
is in good shape. If it comes out black that
means the oil hasn’t been changed often or at
all. If it comes out white or creamy (think
mushroom soup) there’s a water pump seal leak.
And gray coloration might mean the bike has
aluminum clutch plates which can contaminate the
transmission oil—that isn’t necessarily bad, but
keep it in mind.
Here are some
more mechanical things to look out for when
purchasing a bike. Get on and bounce up and down
on the seat. This will help you determine if
there’s any suspension problems because loud
squeaking or the suspension on the bike sticks
means it’ll cost you some dough, a lot of dough,
in the near future. And speaking of other sounds
to listen for are there any metallic “rings” or
“slapping”? Those sounds equate piston and/or
cylinder issues.
Oh and while you’re checking the
oil color, check out the forks and rear shock
for seepage, because replacing those seals can
help put someone’s kid through college based on
labor cost alone. If the fork tubes are dented
or have any sign of damage they’re going to end
up fouling your seals.
Check the flywheel/magneto
arrangement. It should be bone dry. If you
detect water the cover has been leaking and rust
can or has set in. If you see oil there could
be problems with the crankshaft seal which has
to be replaced and will also set you back a good
chunk of cash . . . and wouldn’t you prefer
using that cash for something else?
And the last fluid check you
should do is . . . look into the radiator
(assuming the bike you’re buying is water
cooled). The fluid should be green. Green
equates good, because if it’s any color other
than green it has never been changed and there
would be internal blockages of the radiator
passages and that means the bike is losing its
cooling capacity. However, if you uncap and see
no fluid, time to start asking more
questions like: Why is there no fluid?
Anyway, I hope
this helps enlighten you a bit in your search
for buying a bike, picking out equipment and
just finding a suitable place to ride, or at
least makes you think of those things. In
closing, just remember to play it safe, take it
slow and enjoy it as much as you can. A
little bit of care can go a long way to the
health of both your bike and you.
Happy racing! |